You ever have one of those days where your body, soul, and phone battery all run out at the same time?
That was me—somewhere between the granite peaks of Ulsanbawi and the fluorescent lights of a Korean convenience store, clutching a dying phone and a new charging cable like it was a lifeline.
But let me back up.
The Climb Begins: Calm Before the Stairpocalypse
I started my hike early, feeling confident. The air was fresh, the trail peaceful, and I was moving fast. Ulsanbawi was calling, and I was answering like an overachiever on a wellness retreat.
But then came the stairs.
Not stairs.The stairs. Endless, sun-scorched, thigh-burning, soul-questioning stairs. The kind that make you wonder why you ever thought hiking was a good idea. Every corner promised the top. Every corner lied.
There were others too—sweating, gasping, determined. I was alone, but I wasn’t alone. It felt strangely comforting.
A Stranger from Switzerland (aka Stair Buddy)
About halfway up the never-ending staircase to the gods, I met a fellow traveler from Switzerland. They were on a business trip with colleagues—working for a travel agency, touring Korea, and doing a temple stay.
We bonded instantly, nothing like shared physical suffering to fast-track a friendship.
At the summit, we were rewarded with crowds, sweat, and panoramic views. My Swiss stair buddy offered to take a photo of me, and I returned the favor. I looked like I’d hiked through a waterfall in a black t-shirt, but hey—proof of life.
Descent, Drenched, and the Bus Mishap
I made my way down, hopped on a packed bus for the 58-minute ride back (standing the whole way like it was a punishment for vanity), and promptly discovered my battery was dying. My charging cable gave up on life, so I bought a new one at the convenience store.
Then, plot twist. I realized I was at the wrong bus terminal. Express instead of intercity.
More sweat. More buses. More standing.
Susan Appears (and Restores My Faith in Humanity)
While waiting, I heard someone call out, “Does anyone speak English?”
I almost ignored it. Almost. But then I answered. Her name was Susan. She was trying to book a place to stay—no accommodation yet, just vibes. I was both shocked and impressed.
Google Maps wasn’t helping, so I pulled out Naver Maps and we found the place. Turns out she’s from Canada, and—get this—she traveled through my country twenty years ago on my birthday. Even passed through my hometown.
What are the odds?
I helped her as much as I could, but then my bus came. I rushed off, still thinking about how wild the world is.
The Final Crash: Korean Class and an Emotional Shutdown
I got home, showered, ate, and sat down for my Korean lesson.
The teacher noticed my writing speed and switched us to a harder textbook. But my brain had hit its limit. She sensed it and switched back, but I couldn’t even focus on the parts I knew.
We were listening to a dialogue when I just… shut down.
Between the heat, the sugar, the dehydration, the physical strain, it all caught up. I ended the lesson early, on the verge of tears.
But Today…
I feel great. I cleaned. Did laundry. Wrote two blog posts. Journaled this entire story.
Because life’s like that. You survive the stairs, the strangers, the sweat, and the shutdowns—and somehow, you wake up the next day and do laundry like a champion.
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